BOOK OF DIFFICULT FRUIT

Arguments for the Tart, Tender, and Unruly (with recipes). Would you know what to do with a Faceclock, Osage Orange, Thimbleberry or Xylitol? Arranged alphabetically, here are 26 fruits that are often overlooked because they are difficult to process or cook. As the author says, each of the fruits is challenging in its own way, maybe tough to prepare, toxic in large quantities or just odd-tasting. Some are well known, but still difficult in the kitchen, such as Cherry, Elderberry, Pomegranate, Rhubarb or Zucchini (courgettes this side of the Atlantic). First in the series is Aronia, which the author explains is also known as "chokeberry", though that may leave you none the wiser. The berries have a deep purple juice and a tannic quality, and the author recommends cooking them with greens, blueberries and a banana, then liquidising to make a smoothie of the "magic bullet" variety. The author takes it every morning for her autoimmune condition and she describes childhood memories of her mother using it as she struggled with the effects of migraine. "Faceclock" is another word for dandelion, and the author enjoys pulling them up out of the lawn as an antidote for depression. She roasts the roots to make dandelion coffee, a detoxifier, grinding them to fine powder and making a drink with vanilla extract and milk. Rhubarb is medicinal, and for pickling you need to use the "thin intense stalks of a struggling plant". Shiroboshi and umeboshi made with Ume Plums will keep indefinitely and can be used in the frying of Chicken Katsu rolls. A treasure trove of wise lore and unusual recipes. 391pp, line drawings.