MOUNTING AND SETTING STONES

An essential craft for both professional and amateur jewellers, stonesetting is a skilled process requiring precision and the right materials. The stone to be set in a mount may be faceted or cabochon (uncut). A cabochon stone sits on its gold or silver bearer with the dome up, whereas a faceted stone sits with the pavilion, or pointed bit, facing downwards. Careful calculations are needed for the right size and design of mount. A setter's bench is set out much the same as for a jeweller, but with a variation in the pegs, and there are detailed instructions here for preparing the different kinds of mount using metalworking techniques. The rub-over, or bezel setting, dates back to ancient times, and uses the bezel or wall of metal to secure the stone by enclosing its girdle or widest part. A beautiful example here uses multiple stones at different angles on a ring. The claw setting, popularised by Audrey Hepburn, uses the principle of covering the girdle with thin claws and is usually used for transparent faceted stones. The gipsy setting uses random small stones inside hollows on the mount on the bezel principle. Pavé is one of the most difficult styles to create, using interlocking stones to hold each other in position, and is traditionally associated with Cartier or Tiffany. Channel refers to a row of aligned rectangles, with the wall of the mount pushed over to hold them. In recent years tension setting has become popular, with the stone held between the ends of an open mount. A section of Appendices includes short cuts, finishing techniques, UK tool suppliers and a glossary. 126pp, softback, colour photos and diagrams.
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